What materials are we draping ourselves in & why?

Rowing against the current…

The Dark Maiden appreciates painstakingly produced textiles, leathers and metals. We invest in materials that have been regarded as ‘the benchmark in their field’ and in material producers that we believe are worth supporting whenever possible. Dozens of hours are spent sourcing tools and high-quality natural materials, researching, etc. I, Sigurd Persson, am adamant in my refusal to work with synthetic and non-organic cotton textiles despite the reality that most people have become accustomed to the convenience of the low price and physical stretch that these fabrics offer. This consequently requires greater time spent drafting patterns and explaining fit, but it’s worth it.

Capitalism is stifling out the reverence, value and knowledge, we as humanity, have passionately felt for centuries about cræft, fine materials and Nature. Upholding this passion means that The Dark Maiden turns a much smaller profit than fast fashion companies and sometimes even other small businesses who work with sub-par materials or whom make false claims (misleading labels) about their unethically sourced cheap animal and/or textile products do. This page discloses a list of some of the materials that The Dark Maiden is comprised of; as well as, some of their key attributes, production & certification processes, and the impact they have on the environment, growers and wearers. Although, The Dark Maiden turns its face from amoral fast fashion practices and has a very low production rate which assists in the ability to uphold values as they are then not easily overseen, there still remains imperfection. This is a journey.

Remembering that the material ‘world’ and spirit ‘realm’ are not separate, we can allow ourselves to be fully enamoured in the beauty of this all and find that divulgement of pleasure as a rebellion in itself. The embracement of animism naturally goes against the monotheistic agenda that so persistently aims to divide- desecrating the tangible ecstasy of the here and now.

So let’s row against the current of fast fashion together in aims of having a positive revival on the value of traditional textiles and stewardship with the Earth while simultaneously delighting in the incredible offerings that this Earth has to offer us.

Here below, I’ve outlined a list of materials with simple descriptions that The Dark Maiden collections are comprised of.

This is to offer transparency & a helpful guide to you!

oeko-Tex Certified

Certified Safe Textiles

All of The Dark Maiden’s linen is Oeko-Tex certified. This is important. Oeko-Tex certification is one of the most globally recognised labels for safe textiles providing assurance to us that the textiles have been thoroughly tested for harmful substances. This certification helps to secure safety in the textile industry.

As described in Wikipedia,

“A registered trademark, representing the product labels and company certifications issued, and other services provided by the International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile and Leather Ecology (=Oeko-Tex for short). Oeko-Tex labels and certifications confirm the human-ecological safety of textile products and leather articles from all stages of production (raw materials and fibres, yarns, fabrics, ready-to-use end products) along the textile and leather value chain. Some also attest to socially and environmentally sound conditions in production facilities. The aim is to enable producers and consumers to make responsible decisions and protect natural resources.”

Read more about Oeko-Tex here.

LInen

LINEN, Linum usitatissimum

There’s a great deal one could relay about the incredible history and benefits of linen as it is the oldest dated textile with discovered remnants dating back to 7000 BC. Linen artifacts were found in the Swiss Lake dwellings, the Qumran Cave near the Dead Sea, and in the pyramids of Egypt among several historical sites. Linen has been used for thousands of years by both those seated at the throne and the common folk ‘pagans- country dwellers’. It’s romantic and noble yet amazingly utilitarian.

True linen is derived from the Flax plant. Flax thrives best/grows strongest in cold climates hence the importance The Dark Maiden places on deriving linen from European origins. Flax requires minimal water and pesticides compared to other crops used for fabric production; and unlike synthetic fabrics, linen doesn’t release microplastics during wash that harm marine life and ecosystems. Every part of the Flax plant is utilised during the production of linen minimising waste. All together the production of linen inflicts less impact on the environment and harm on growers than the production of other textiles making it one of the most sustainable and ethical textile choices. This fabric does require a greater financial investment than synthetic and cotton materials, and has a longer lifespan reducing the need for replacement by wearers. So it is quite obvious that the greed of capitalism doesn’t find linen favourable in its profit; and therefore, we hardly spot it in the US.

There are several important attributes of linen. Linen is strong whether wet or dry; therefore, traditional sails and rope were comprised of linen. So it makes sense that it was one of the most valued textiles, alongside wool, by all Norsefolk during the Viking Period. It is fast drying and breathable inhibiting bacterial growth. It is also more stain-resistant than most other textiles and does not hold onto body odours like synthetic material does. It softens with each wash and wear. It lasts.

Natural-shaded linen has not been dyed nor has it been bleached. The darker the linen, the better. The likelihood that linen has been bleached lessens in darker shades. Although, all linen is biodegradable unbleached linen is even more biodegradable. This is one reason why I primarily sew with black linen other than the mere adoration for the colour.

Recycled European Wool

wool

Like linen the use of wool has been widely used over the world for thousands of years. It has been used in Europe since the Bronze Age, and the oldest wool textile remnants (dating back to around 1500 BC) were found in a swamp in Denmark. There are several ways to weave, dye and use wool with over 1,000 different sheep to derive it from. Wool is durable, naturally breathable, odour resistant, renewable, biodegradable, warm and soft. It’s one of my absolute favourite materials that is still commonly used throughout Scandinavia and the rest of Northern Europe today.

The process of wool production is a time consuming one that involves the care of livestock by farmers and all that entails. Wool production involves: wool skirting and scouring, spinning into yarn, dyeing if not left natural, warping looms and weaving. It is no wonder that this material comes at one of the highest costs.

The Diamond Weave

The Dark Maiden will be offering European wool garments come colder seasons as it the best natural thermal insulating fabric. Most of these upcoming garments will be made from gorgeous broken twill weaves including a hand-woven diamond weave.

The diamond weave demands a skilled weaver and complex loom so it was historically reserved for more ostentatious wardrobes, and I have found it to be the perfect degree of elegance for dresses and coats. The specific diamond woven wool that I’ve selected was made with an old horizontal loom with a flying shuttle and from recycled wool. It is in a wonderful weight that offers warmth without heaviness at 350 g/m². Recycled wool gives already produced wool a second life. It is a perfectly wonderful material that’s causes less impact on the environment than virgin wool as no additional water use nor requirement of land for livestock is necessary. Strict environmental control oversaw the material, manufacturing and dyeing processes assuring that this wool is free of any harmful chemicals.

Leather

Veg vs Chrome Tanning

The process through which animal hides are turned into leather is referred to as tanning. Vegetable tanning is an ancient technique that uses natural plant tannins to alter the protein structure of the hide, alchemizing it into leather. In essence, these organic substances serve and function in preserving, strengthening and giving shade to the hide. Tree species that are commonly used to make veg tanned leather are: Birch, Willow, Oak, Mimosa, Chestnut and Catechu. How beautiful is it that when you wear this leather, you are also wearing the essence of a tree? These natural tannins make for a notably gorgeous character and distinct sweet aroma.

Veg tanned leather is regarded as the benchmark in the leather industry; it’s robust and can last longer than a person’s lifetime. Often no synthetic coatings are applied which allows this leather to breathe and absorb oils, and go on to form a patina. In the world of leather, patina is an indicator of aesthetic beauty and quality; enhancing the perceived value of a leather product. Recall your grandfather’s old leather wallet and the varied shade it had after wear? That was the lovely patina.

The process of vegetable tanning takes anywhere from 30-60 days; whereas, the process of chrome tanning can take merely a single day. This is why the vast majority of leather today is chrome tanned leather. There are also chrome-free leather and hide options that were not tanned with plant matter but with chemicals, however ones that are far less harmful to the environment than chrome.

Use

The Dark Maiden favours veg-tanned cow leather and I often hand-dye and seal this leather myself. It is the most eco-friendly option even if quite a bit of water is used during the tanning process. Due to the length of time and manual labor (vs the automated machinery used in the chrome process) veg tanned leather is a greater investment. One that’s worth it. However, there are times that non-veg tanned leather’s properties outweigh that of veg tanned leather’s. Examples of that are its water resiliency and soft stretch capability (think of bike seats). If I am worried about a specific piece loosing it’s colour due to regular outdoor use/rain exposure i.e. a leather underbust corset that will likely will be worn on top of special garments at several outdoor Renaissance-themed gatherings, I might occasionally compromise by substituting with the highest quality non-veg tanned leather I have found as the colour is absolutely insured with zero risk of dye leakage when exposed to rain (I don’t want your textiles underneath to be stained). And sometimes, I use recycled leather and am unsure of which tanning process was used.

I primarily source my leather from a small local business to support them; not large chain-stores. Each listing of a veg tanned leather piece will indicate such as long as I am aware of how it was processed and again, it is my absolute preference.

Organic Cotton

Cotton, Gossypium herbaceum

I very seldomly use cotton in my work for The Dark Maiden, but in a few of the upcoming pieces offered in the Spring Collection I made an exception for organic cotton mull. This was for the sake of reflecting these period-influenced pieces more accurately and simply because nothing compares to the lightness and soft feel of mull. The word ‘mull’ derives from the Hindi word ‘mal’ which means soft. Organic cotton mull is a delicately woven fabric that was used throughout the 18th century. Mull originated in India and was introduced to Europe during the Renaissance period.

The organic cotton I’ve chosen was grown in India and certified by two organisations- Skal and Solidaridad; independent groups based in the Netherlands. On the contrary, conventionally grown cotton uses some of the most toxic pesticides and environmentally harmful fertilisers than any other single crop. Caring about the health of growers and the environment make going organic pivotal.

Photographs from top to bottom:

Women knitting in the Faroe Islands; Swedish women spinning wool; “Överdel”, credit to Nordiska museet; unknown; “Sámi babies and children learn to be flexible in their sleep habits, as in this archive photo from the 1930s”, credit to Finnish Heritage Agency; An abode in Sweden.